Highlights of Trip to Ukraine and the Balkans

..from my blog spring 2007

Budapest

Budapest has changed since my last visit in 1993. Five star hotels, restaurants, Burger King, McDonalds, Pizza Hut as well as coffee houses and high quality dining line the streets. The sites remain the same. Yesterday I toured St Stephen's Basilica, the largest church in Budapest and today I wandered across the Margaret Bridge and around the castle district to St Matthias Church, the Royal Palace and the National Gallery. The views across the Danube to the parliament buildings are spectacular.

On the way back I crossed the chain bridge and stopped at the Intercontinental to use the five star washroom. Next I walked to and down the fashionable Andrassy Street and peaked in to the opera house. This is a spectacular building. Tomorrow I now possess a ticket to the opera, Figaro. On Sunday morning the opera tickets are half price.

My feet are sore after the twenty kilometers of wandering and I am tired so tomorrow will be an indulgent day at the opera.

Now for other things ...I am enjoying my hostel. I love the area, close to Nygeti Pu and the Opera house and a Spar. The only suggestion is if the hostel could have a larger common area. The Art hostel is immaculate and the people who run in are knowledgeable and very nice. And best of all they have a cappuccino maker ...I am in heaven!!

On Friday evening I was invited to a dress rehearsal to a violin concert by one of the student's at the Budapest Communication University. What a magical experience!! This was after meetings at the University to organize meetings and classroom visits for next week.

The other part is the people one meets. The other people in the hostel are very interesting. Four women from Denmark between the ages of 40 to 50 years, a Canadian lawyer who is working in Paris are some of the people with whom I have held interesting conversations ...mostly about EU and the perceptions and feelings of the people.

As the metro trains surfaced in the suburbs the concrete block apartments became visible. The contrast with the central historical buildings was readily apparent. Yet the external decay of many of the exteriors was consistent for both the buildings in historical center and the suburbs which house the masses.

Many of the buildings in the center are being renovated into high end apartments, shops and businesses. The people living in the suburbs are rewarded with Ikea and the Arkad--the mega shopping mall with Spar, Mex, Yves Roches beside the European and Hungarian brands.

This was all next to the Budapest Communication University where I was visiting to sit in on classes, speak with students and professors.

Krakow

We love Krakow.  We arrived from Bratislava after a long  9 hour train ride which was a beautiful trip through the Tatras.  We love our apartment, Cybulskiego Guest Rooms.  The place has  a fabulous location and it is immaculate and cozy and the people who run it, Paul and his family are wonderful.

Today we toured Wavel Hill and Castle and the Jewish quarter.  Now we will head to the square and get tickets to the Salt Mine for tomorrow.

Ukraine and Ostroh

It seems as if it has been a long time since I have been on this site.  I am now in Ostroh in Ukraine, between Lviv and Kiev.  On Monday I will do a presentation at the university on strategic planning.

So for logistical details  The border crossing was easier than expected .

 We took a train from Krakow at 9am to Przemysl at 8:30 which arrived at 12:05pm.  We exited the train station and went to the bus station to inquire about a mini bus to the border. The mini bus was 2 ZL and left in a few minutes.   We changed the rest of our Zlotys to Hryvnyas and arrived at the Polish Ukraine border in about 15 minutes.

The line up at the Polish border was short. There were two lines ups, one for EU passport holders and one for the rest  We were permitted through the EU passport line even though we hold Canadian passports  This line up could be as long at 300 to 400 meters based on the gates outside the office  We then walked about 500 meters to the Ukrainian passport control  Again, there were two line ups, one was for EU passport holders and the other was for the rest of us  There were no EU passport holders and we scooted up to the EU line up and were quickly processed  The entire process took about 30 minutes including the walk between the two borders  A marshrutka was waiting for us and it left in about 5 minutes  Within 1 1/2 hours we were at the Lviv train station  We could not find the tram number 1 or 9 as we were left off on the back side of the train station so we took a marshrutka into the town center 

We were advised to go to the Polish Tourist office (number 17 Rynok Square--third floor)  and could have have had a room for 8 dollars for each of us, but the room was about a 20 minute marshrutka ride out of town so we called the apartment that had been booked, but was changed due to "a plumbing" problem".

What a great apartment  It was about 2 kilometers from the town center (Tarnawskoho St) --just off Zelena.The next 2 days were spend wandering around the wonderful town  We enjoyed Ploscha Rynok (square), Lychakiv Cemetery, Castle Hill, countless churches and coffee and poppy seed cake in the trendy cafes and so many wonderful things so do and see.

We highly recommend Olgas cafe bar on Copernika, just around the corner from the George Hotel  Peek your head into the nondescript building and you will be rewarded with great food in a non smoking atmosphere at local prices.

On Monday night we have tickets on the overnight train to Kiev  We have an apartment booked and are looking forward to 3 nights and 5 days in Kiev!!  We have apartments books in Odessa and are sorting out forward travel to the Carpathians and then on to Zagreb.

Today I presented to 50 economics students at the University at Ostroh.  We talked about strategic management and did an assessment of the tourism and IT-Service sector in Ukraine.  I was introduced to the Dean of Economics.  I glanced up and saw  several books, entitled, Ethical Issues in Business.  These were the only books with english titles in the office.  Hmm!!!!!

It was a great day and a wonderful presentation and tonight we have train tickets to Kiev and an apartment in Kiev and a pickup at the train station so that we can explore the streets once we deposit our luggage...more on Kiev and impressions of the city and our apartment.

Kiev

We have enjoyed the beautiful city of Kiev, the reconstructed churches mingle with the flash of the shopping centers  The chestnut trees are flowering and the streets are lively during the hot 30 degree temperatures.  The golden domes of the churches contrast with the communist monuments.

We arrived at 6am on the train from Ostroh.  That was a great experience in Coupe class.  There are 4 bunks in a compartment.  At 7am we were settled into our apartment on Gorkyo (Horkoho Street).  We are close to thePalais Ukraina Metro station and only a few steps from Volodymyrsky Market, which is more of a local market with a few street vendors selling produce at prices even less than in the market  Here we bought strawberries, fresh potatoes and mushrooms for less that the price of potatoes. We have been cooking stir fry vegetables and eating salads with fresh lettuce and tomatoes and cucumbers.  It tastes like vegetables used to taste.  Wine and beer are abundant and cheap.  We still have not acquired a taste for vodka or cognac.

 Our first stop was Khreschatyk street only three metro stops from our apartment.  The metro steps emerge after a long escalator ride to Independence Square which is the place of the Orange Revolution.  Independence Square overlooks the trendy expensive shopping malls and small shopping streets.

 Another metro stops and a funicular ride took us to the water front  and St Mikhayil's Monastery of the golden domes.  A further walks and we were on Andreyevsjt Spusk (shopping and art gallery street).  On the way back to Independence Square we wandering to St Sophia's Cathedral--this church was modeled after Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.

 A half day was spent at the Cave Monastery (Kiev Perchersky Lavra)--white churches with gold domed roofs--is the heart and soul of Ukraine which attracts over 100,000 pilgrims every year.  The caves which house the mummified saints are a moving site when as you move slowly in the dark caves light only by your candle.  Pilgrims are kissing the coffins and going through rituals as it is believed the saints will answer their prayers.

 On Friday May 25 we are off to Odessa for three nights of relaxation and catch up time and also time to plan for our last week and a visit to the Carpathians before we head to Croatia via Hungary.

Odessa

We arrived in Odessa by train from Kiev at 7:30 am on May 28.  Since it was a holiday on May 28 and a long weekend their were no train tickets.   We were traveling with our friend, Natalka from Ukraine who called in her contacts to get tickets for us which might not have been used by VIPs. and for an additional service fee.  We went to wicket number 41 at noon and were told to come back at 3:00pm.  At 3pm we were told to come back at 6 and at 6pm we were told to come back at 7.  At 9pm and after standing in line with no success we dashed to the train and got on to car number 13.  For 100 hrv we got to sit in a folding chair until people left the train at a station between Kiev and Odessa.  At 3am we got a sleeping compartment and passed out until the train arrived at 7:30am.

 Natalka's friends met us at the train station and we took a taxi to our apartment which was near the center  on Rishelyevskaya. After a short rest, coffee, and breakfast we headed to the train station to book onward tickets to Kamyanets-Podilsky on the train which goes in this direction on odd days of the month.  Two nights would have been adequate in Odessa as we arrived in the morning and take a night train to our next destination.

We walked along the long boulevards and descended the 192 Potemkin stairs to up at the sea terminal. The city is full of squares and shady parks.  We took train number 5 to to Arkadia --the glitzy beach where one goes to be seen and to the sea. In the evening we dressed in skirts and heels to walk Deribasov Skaga street.  Entertainment, music, architecture, restaurants and glimmering shops were eye candy.

  We discovered Percyk--a peach liquor for only 13 Hrv ($2.50) and a quality cabernet (Shabo) for only 16 Hrv ($5.00).

The local market near the train station has great produce, ham, cheese, deli items, salads, cookies and halvah, and dried fruits along with flowers and clothes and house wares.  Halvah is popular in Ukraine and a Kilo of the sweet sesame and sugar paste is about $2.00 a kilo.

 The last leg of the trip in Ukraine is the Carpathians.  We will spend two nights in Synevir National park before speeding through Hungary to Croatia.

Kamyanets Podilsky

Three cities --a whirlwind from the beaches of Odessa to the Castles in the lush Carpathians.

Kamyanets Podilsky is a must see.  The city is set in a park like setting with a fairy tale castle perched on top of a rock canyon along the Smotrych River Canyon.  the old town with its churches, plazas and cobble stone streets is a prelude to the amazing fortress.  The town is worth visiting for at least a two day stay.  The fortress and old town coupled with inexpensive accommodation, food and easy transport make it a "must see"!

We arrived by overnight train from Odessa (odd days of the month) at 8am.  We checked out the Ukrainian Hotel, a tired run down hotel near the bus station.  Single rooms were 140HRY and doubles were 200/220 HRY and a bed with sink was 66HRY.  Compare this with the New Gala Hotel (info@gala-hotel.com at 120HRY (Single and double) and the Filarski Centre at 120/160hry for a single/double.  (www.filkavari.km.va).  The hotels are across from each other and are modern and clean.  For .80 hry bus number 20/29 will take you to the front of either hotel from the bus station.  A taxi is 6 HRY from the bus station.  The hotels are a short walk from Ivano Franko Street across the bridge and up the street from the fortress.  Both hotels are clean and have inexpensive restaurants.  The Filkavari centre has an entertainment area with billiards a pool and a disco and a large garden area to enjoy a beer. 

Our next adventure was a series of bus rides to the Carpathians  (Lake Synevyr).  From Kamyanets Podilsky we took a bus to Ivano Frankivisk which continue to Dolly.  From Dolly we negotiated a taxi shared by 2 local people  to Mzyheria where we had made arrangements to be picked up to stay in the Carpathians at Synevyr  (Lake Synevyr National Park).  We stayed at Bokarash  ( www.bokorash.boom.ru ). What a magical place. Very few western tourists have explored this part of the Carpathians  bokorash_tur@ukr.net  (120hry per person per night stay inclusive of meals and excursions)

I highly recommend this guest house and the area.  Buses from Ivano Frankivist to Uzhgorod stop at Mzyheria where Micha will pick you up and take you to his home where three meals are prepared for you.  Hikes, walks and excursions in the area provide a glimpse into  a different side of Ukraine.  Another night or two stay would be a great idea between Chernivisi and Rakhiv before continuing to Khust and changing marshrutkas/buses for the final 50 kilometers to Mzyheria. 

Of most importance...we discovered Cognac is great cognac for between 40 and 50 hry!!

After two days in Sznevyr Micha took us to catch the 2pm bus to Uygorod where to continued on to Chop where we spend the night before crossing the border the next morning and continuing to Budapest and Zagreb. (Croatia and Slovenia)