Africa

Working in the Prison System in South Africa

This is a newsletter written by Clare who I met in Mozambique about her work in a prison  South Africa. This is only one of a series of letters writen by Clare to her friends. This letter is powerful and reveals another side of South Africa.

Hello Again:

April 16, 2005

    I recently had a Tarot reading done by a new friend, Paddy.  She's actually
the wife of Jacob the chiropractor's brother, Nick.  And they live a lot
closer than Durban - in Mtunzini, a small beach town (you say beach and I'm
there).  Paddy and Nick are both homeopaths, and also kindred spirits of
mine.  They also have a delightful 14 mo. girl who's a joy to be around.  
I've spent 2 long weekends there in the past two weeks.  The last time, I
rode the waves on a boogie board which was thrilling.  (I'd become so
accustomed to not ever swimming on the Oregon coast).  Anyway, one card I
got was 'The Fool' with the picture of him about to step into a crocodile's
mouth but smiling and dancing.  The metaphor was that danger is underfoot
but his faith and trust and good humor/whimsy carry him thru.  That feels
like my situation a lot of the time.  Certainly in terms of where I travel
and work and even live.  With my Zulu, I'm definitely the fool.

    Anyway, right now I'm at the pool, my new exercise mode (along with
Pilates).  It's also the only fun thing to do in Empangeni.  The water is
pretty cold (winter approaches and it closes in a week) but I'm also here
cuz it's a nice grassy patch to sit on and I don't know any others (dearth
of parks).  Wish I'd been coming earlier in heat of summer (Feb and Mar.
wasted).  Anyway, the lifeguard asked me where I was from and said "I knew
you were a foreigner because I saw you talking to some black people" (!).  
OK.  We had a very depressing conversation.  Days before that, I'd been in
the Pick n Pay parking lot and a woman flagged me down saying "honey, I saw
you talking to a black person the other day.  You must be very careful."  
Empangeni, my little town.  Conversely, I seem to make a lot of the locals
quite happy with my greetings.  At this point, I seem pretty well-known to a
lot of folks.  I suppose I've met them in the shops and taxis and the street
so people often greet me first and I have no idea how I know them (unless
they've got their uniform on).  I wish my memory were better...

April 22
    I do want to speak more about my work.  Last night I just saw a gruesome
program about the gangs in prisons.  They focused on one prison and I'm
trying to tell myself-- maybe it's just there, though I believe they said
everywhere.  There are 3 notorious gangs, called the 26, 27, and 28’s all dating
from apartheid.  The important thing to remember is that during apartheid,
black inmates were literally treated like animals, with no rights whatsoever
(including lack of medical care) so they needed a system to survive.  The TV
program was called the "art of survival" actually.  But this is still how it
works.  One gang has all it's 'activities' from noon - midnight and the
other the opposite time (3rd gang may be defunct).  They need to inform each
other if they'll deviate from these times.  When a new inmate arrives he's
stripped to identify his tattoos to see gang affiliation.  If none, I guess
he can choose.  But he has to prove himself with a knife.  The sacrificial
lambs are the non-aligned prisoners and the wardens.  He has to lie about
why it happened and he can't turn in the knife to the warden without
injuring him first.  The gangs have a very strict military hierarchy -
called Sgt, Capt, etc.  Someone is in charge of the knives, of issuing
orders to punish people etc (soap in socks, or a padlock in socks)...  And
you can't murder someone by spilling their blood; a towel is used to
strangle them.  And then you eat their liver.  (I forced myself to watch
this last night since I did fear nightmares.  I remember how "Silence of the
Lambs" haunted me and that was fiction).  Anyway, it was such a compelling
documentary.  I couldn't believe they allowed themselves to be interviewed.  
(Did this ever happen with the US gangs - since I never watched TV, I
wouldn't know if there was in-depth coverage of them).  The inmates were
upset about a few things in popular culture.  Apparently, the youth are
picking up prison gang language (some TV program popularized it)  Zola hola
7 or something.  They warned the youth that using this language could get
you killed.  Also, there was a prison movie where they felt they were
portrayed in a demeaning manner.  OK.  I think the issue was around 'rape'.  
They wanted to set the record straight that there isn't rape and to explain
the technicalities - that prison sex is not anal but just between the
thighs.  That was very important for them to convey.  I guess those are the
highlights that I remember of the show.

    I suppose I should be glad that I'm now working with juveniles.  Forgive me
if I'm repeating myself at all.  The art group was almost all 'adults' and
thankfully we've canned it due to its lifelessness.  So now I'm with the 18
- 26 year olds mainly cuz they're in one section only of the prison and it
was so hard coordinating a meeting place, but here I can be on the unit (and
it's still hard to get the room cuz the social worker also needs it).  
Anyway, I just did a whirlwind book group with 10 guys.  The book was Never
Been at Home by Zazah Khuzwayo, a Zulu woman who wrote about her childhood
with a physically, verbally and sexually abusive policeman father and a
long-suffering mother and an abusive grandmother.  Somehow Zazah survived it
all after some promiscuity and alcoholism.  And she even forgave her father.
  The book was jam-packed with discussion topics and really kept me on my
toes.  We met for 2 1/2 hours for 3 consecutive days and I'd come home
exhausted each day.  Ray, the co-facilitator was only there 1/2 time.  I
preferred his absence in some ways as he babied them with Zulu translation
and they really did well with English and it’s a good opportunity for them
to practice.  He also has no sense of time management.  But he does make
great contributions and is a wonderful role model.

    Anyway, here's a sampling of discussions.  A lot centered on gender roles.  
They felt it was wrong Zazah's mom hadn't asked permission from her husband
before getting a job even though he would've said no and they were literally
starving because he didn't support them.  They complained about women's
rights being everywhere now and it had gone too far.  That now a woman could
lie about being raped by her boyfriend and he'd land in jail unfairly (and
that 60% of those in prison were just there cuz of a verbal argument and the
woman lied...) and then meanwhile the woman got 15,000 rand ($250) from the
government as compensation - that's why she'd do it.  I was sympathetic and gave
benefit of the doubt (till I could check it out) and I emphasized that life
isn't fair and they could still make the best of their prison experience
by focusing on education etc.  So then I did investigate.  My boss said
there was no such thing.  Ray said he'd checked it out on the web and he
felt it was just another rape myth and he'd been hearing the figure going up
all the time as the claim circulated in prison.  The only validity was if a
woman contracted AIDS then she got compensation in form of treatment I
believe.  Ann pointed out that since AIDS rate is so high maybe a lot of
women would be compensated then or perhaps claim rape to get treatment.  I
hope that's not the case but who knows.  Given my previous domestic violence
work and my discussion with these guys, my suspicion is that their concept
of abuse is pretty dicey.  A lot of the time I felt like I was back in the
1950's or something.  While they sympathized with Zazah's suffering, they
were still critical of her getting involved with an older man and winding up
being raped.  If she were their daughter or sister they'd have scolded her
(though some said they'd have comforted her and taken her for medical
treatment and counseling).  I said I didn't get it here they had girlfriends
and were sexual with them - their sisters and future daughters were also
young women, how could they have this double standard.  (I've articulated
that poorly here but I hope you get what I'm saying).  They were evasive and
went into complaints about their girlfriends' mixed messages - one day
she'll have sex.  The next day she won't want it.  Well, maybe she's not in
the mood.  Doesn't that happen to you sometimes?  Most were adamant that it
didn't, they always wanted sex.  OK fine you're young guys with raging
hormones...   One said he didn't all the time but was afraid to tell his
girlfriend or she'd think he'd been with another.  A guy then jumped down
his throat - that's not normal that you wouldn't want sex all the time...  I
used it as a platform to remind them there are individual differences;
cultural differences etc and we're not gonna judge each other.  I gave an
example of my difficulties in the Zulu village when I used the kitchen sink
to brush my teeth.  No, you didn't, how horrible, that's wrong....  No, it's
just different -- in America we wouldn't be bothered by it.  This class is
about opening your minds and growing.  (A point I keep coming back to)

    They spoke of a cultural thing of a woman saying no but meaning yes.  I
asked if Zazah had meant yes in the passage where she was raped.  No, she
meant no.  I encouraged them to watch for signs and how they can tell if
someone is afraid or angry or unwilling vs. just being coy.  We spoke a lot
about rape then.  Not surprisingly, they believed if a woman wears sexy
clothes she's asking for it.  Anyway, I think you're getting the idea.  I
certainly wasn't bored.      So I should say it's now May 2nd and Zazah has
come and gone.  She visited the prison to speak with the guys a few weeks
after they read the book.  What a wonderful human being.  She was such an
inspiration to them -- if she can do it they can too.  She's all of 28 years
old, never went to college, just had this drive to write her story and get
it published.  It was a catharsis for her.  She also spoke of the power of
forgiveness, as she did forgive all her relatives, especially her dad.  She
was very clear and straight-forward with the guys.  Told them to stop being
controlled by their dicks etc.  Anyway, I got to hang out with her a bunch
which was a real treat.  Now she's supporting herself and her son by doing
tour guiding but she'd like to go to college (and I think she should teach
writing, use her gifts).  I suggested she look into Fulbrights, but does
anyone else have any ideas about study opportunities/scholarships in the
US?  Thanks for input.

     While I'm querying, here's something else.  There's an amazing book called
We're All Doing Time by Bo Lozoff of the Human Kindness Foundation.  In the
70's he started a meditation program in the prisons and this book is a free
resource to all US prisoners.  Includes yoga too and general spiritual
concepts and tools for transformation.  It quotes the Dalai Lama and
Christianity, it's multi-faceted.  I've already bugged a few friends to send
me copies (thank you Judy and Cat and Ed).  Ann really liked it and used
some quotes/prayers in her bible study group.

    I gave my 1st copy to Raymond as he was feeling pretty blue.  He's just
been strung along re: parole.    Since he is so smart and capable he’s always helping other prisoners with their appeals and studies and guards with their studies.  So he barely has time for his own studies.  And he's harassed in lots of ways.  Like often they won't even
let him come to the group we're co facilitating which is really frustrating.  
Anyway, the book was a wonderful balm for him and helped give him
perspective.  Of course other inmates are checking it out and many more
copies would be appreciated.  So if anyone wants to send a copy, it would be
gratefully devoured.  They are $10 from the Foundation and then you pay
postage to S. Africa.  No pressure whatsoever, just fyi.  Oh wait, I almost
forgot.  Part of what's so great about the book is that it has tons of
letters from prisoners.  They're very moving.  I'd also recommend the book
to any of you who are interested as well.  You just go to Human Kindness
Foundation web site if interested or Amazon.com probably has it.

[Excuse me everyone.  This was my trip interlude.  Didn't want to disrupt
the flow of the letter so I'm putting it last though the date is in the
middle.]

4-23-05
    I'm gonna do another station identification.  Today was the day my 2nd visa
expired.  So guess where I'm not.  South Africa.  I fantasized about a trip
to Mozambique, maybe even checking out Concern's AIDS project there (Concern
is the agency I worked with in El Salvador) but there were 2 obstacles.  
One, it's at the opposite end of Mozambique and way too many bus hours for
this back of mine.  And two, I only had 5 days travel-time because I have to
be back for the author, Zazah's visit to the prison.  I want to be back
actually as it seems like a wonderful opportunity to meet her and see her
interactions with the inmates.

    So I've returned to Swaziland.  New venue this time.  A game reserve off
the road so easy access for me.  Alas, one hears the cars go by.  But there
were many good things.  I slept in a private beehive, this time, made
entirely of wood inside and thatch out.  And it was 1/2 the cost of one's in
Sondzela cuz no toilet.  I had a lovely dinner after a nice walk to the
lodge.  Finished just in time as 75 elderly RV-traveling Americans
descended on the place.  Quite jarring for me since I've barely been around
Americans in 6 months.  Maybe I should stay in Africa (just kidding).  They
were perfectly nice people just loud, when I'm looking for peace and quiet.  
So the trouble with the beehive is it's only lit by a lantern so vision is
impossible.  I went and sat by the closed snack bar overlooking the
crocodile pit.  Then slept well (mosquitoes are minimal now cuz of winter
which is good cuz it's malarial area) and was ready for my guided game walk
at 7 am.  The guide told me a lot of animals must have been scared off by
the escape in the night of, guess who?  Mr. Crocodile.  Ooh.  Wonder if it
happened while I was there...  Anyway, the poor workers had to go searching
for it and didn't find it till 3 am.  Supposedly they lassoed it and tied it
to a tree, and would fetch it in the morning.  I think the management was
pretty pissed and I guess it's a secret (don't tell anybody).  Though
apparently, croc's are much less dangerous to people on land because they
can't pull them underwater to drown them.  (It is ironic what I wrote about
earlier re: my Tarot card reading -- even though I'm a literal-minded
person, it hadn't occurred to me more than metaphorically.  Whimsy/good
humor probably wouldn't get me very far with a real crocodile.  Doubt he'd
warm to me if I told a joke in Zulu (not that I could anyway, but I could
sure greet well and tell him I came from America...)

    So we walked a way before seeing various animals.  Giraffes were the
highlight for me-- my favorites.  A group of them is called 'a journey' as
they travel together.  My guide apologized for only having been on the job
for a month so not knowing more.  Not a problem for me, I just like having
him all to myself and enjoyed the conversation.   

Anyway I asked him about the political situation in Swaziland.  He
said it's grim and they've been advised not to talk about anything with
tourists, but since I asked...  I guess the king is a real self-indulgent
guy-- on his 12th wife, has lots of fancy cars, an underground disco etc.  
Meanwhile who goes around to other nations asking for hand-outs to help his
starving people?  A drought is really making things worse.  I told my guide
that I'd just read an article about lack of democratic freedoms in Swaziland
and would he like to see it (from a South African paper).  Of course, but I
had to be clandestine about giving it to him.  Wow.  OK, point well-taken.  
So much thinking Swaziland is such a lovely place.  Felt creepier and
creepier to be a tourist in these types of conditions.  Anyway.

    So, a major drawback of this place was lack of cooking facilities.  
However, when I got a ride to the market for my obligatory picnic food, a
staffer mentioned they had a cabin with a kitchen building as well in a
remote location, for only $5 more.  There might be campers at the campsite
the next night but I'd be alone that night.  Is it safe?  Yes.  There's a
security person.  Cool, sign me up.  Now I assumed the guy would be at the
campsite but that was incorrect.  Who knows where he stayed but 'far' and he
was only on foot.  So had there been a problem...  But they said it's safe
and that's what I stood by.  My peace of mind that is.  I was thrilled
actually to be able to be a woman alone in the wilderness.  Don't think I've
ever done that before.  The site itself was fairly non-descript but there
was a watering hole (what was left of the river) right there where warthogs
and zebra and buck came to drink and the impalas would spar nearby.  They
sounded like lions to me.  Anyway I had my own cabin with cold shower (with
option of a tank outside which could be heated by firewood).  Very cozy.  
Alas I couldn't lock it and there was no curtain so I felt a bit vulnerable
but actually slept well.  And there was another cabin which was a kitchen.  
So it was great.  A dream come true for me in a way as I've always wanted to
go into the wilderness on my own, but never knew how to do it 'safely'.  It
was a great gift.

May 2nd
    OK I think I'm gonna sign off here.  This is plenty for my new scribe, Tom
, to be word processing.  Next time I'll write about the Life Skills group
I'm doing with the book group now.  I do feel like my skills are being used
these days and the work itself is challenging and fulfilling.  It's just a
question of the quality of my life outside the prison...
    Ann finally got a new fridge.  It's nice not to have cockroaches and mold
in it anymore.  Though I still can't use it much.  She let me have another
new friend visit this weekend which I appreciated.  Her name is Khimendry.  
And she was one of the co-facilitators of the Alternative to Violence
program workshop I did when I 1st arrived.  It was great to finally be able
to speak with someone else about the prison work.  And I'm looking forward
to a Victim Offender mediation training next week as that's something I'd
like to be doing.  OK, hasta luego.
-Ellen Clare