A few more hundred kilometers west again from Jodhpur lies Jaisalmer—the “Golden City” which has the look of a giant sand castle. Although the fort is not as high as the one in Jodhpur, it has all the grandeur. Errol Flynn and the French Foreign Legion would be right at home here. At one time, the desert came right up the walls and fort gates. Now a kilometer of “modern” Jaisalmer creates a buffer between the desert and the considerable presence of the Indian army. Jaisalmer Fort is a living museum as the fort is still lived in by about 3000 people. Once inside the gates after climbing the steep incline, you find yourself in a small area of winding narrow alleys where it is easy to get lost for a day or two.
A room with a window view over the fort walls in a 500-year-old haveli in the city ramparts was found for $18 per night. To the west lie desert, the Indian army and Pakistan and now fields of windmills to power the military needs. This is the westward point of the Rajasthan journey and the most tranquil of the entire trips as the town is only 50,000 people which is small by Indian standards. We spent a few days angling from one roof top view to another—savouring the “best meal in town”. We actually enjoyed the food at the Paradise Hotel and became frequent visitors.
Lying on cushions and looking at the walls to the desert and the setting sun, cold Kingfisher—a great place to slow down and measure time by the sun.